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Thread: Fyrburgh Fort - Hints and Tips.

  1. #1
    Kickstarter Backer SableFox's Avatar
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    Fyrburgh Fort - Hints and Tips.

    Let me start by saying the I have built the Fyrburgh Fort set, really enjoying making-up the kit, and loving the end result. The fort is highly modular design, allowing you to use it in a number of different scenarios from small fortlet to a section of a city wall.

    I consider myself to be a moderately good builder/modeller with scratch-building experience. However, the Fyrburgh kit is large and moderately complex, and I discovered a few gotchas (which were my fault). I thought I would share some Hints and Tips in the hope they might help others. If you have built this set, or other Teuden Defence kits, then please add to this thread by sharing your experiences.

    My first comment is on the fact that the planks are cut all the way through the pieces. This leads to two potential complications: (a) some of the pieces are weaker than you might expect (so handle with care, especially when extracting them); and (b) there are little slivers of waste wood between the planks which you probably should really remove before glueing (I ended up tapping each piece, like a Napoleonic sailor removing weevils from ship’s biscuit).

    I found the following piece especially easy to break (so take care): D8, G4, H7/8/9, and K3/4. L6, with its big slot in a narrow plank, looked like it should break, but I didn’t actually have one break on me.

    The wall pieces are really easy to make up. My only caution is to be gentle when bending the inner wall (D8) in to place on the curved sections. Despite trying to be careful, I managed to bend two of them too far - they are easy to glue back together though.

    I brought a couple of extra straight pieces for conversion - one as a breached section (see separate thread { http://4groundforums.com/showthread....-and-Daldorr#8 }) and to make some shorter wall sections. Don’t bother to do the latter since 4Ground will be releasing 3” and 1.5” lengths as add-ons anyway. It was fun making my own, but 4Ground’s will be easier.

    The staircases are very easy to make up. If you, like me, pop out all the risers (C5 - they are all on one sheet) to make up the stairs on page 1, remember to keep the excess since you need them for the stairs on pages 4 and 6 - loosing them - as I did - could be rather embarrassing or expensive.

    When making the doors, I found the bar brackets (E9) hard to position correctly, so I left the drawbar (F4) in place whilst the glue set to ensure it would fit later. Though it is an obvious thing, make sure you getting the locking tab (G3) on the right side with respect to the drawbar. The doors are meant to open outwards (makes them harder to break with a battering-ram).

    The towers are more complex than the walls. I found them somewhat more difficult that the average house; but still fairly straight forward. I thoroughly recommend doing a dry run of each stage.

    My main mistake was that despite knowing I was supposed to make four corner and two straight through towers, I managed to make up three of each. Not really a problem, but since the interior sections only fit together in specific orders, I did not have the right pieces for the third straight-through tower. Nothing that trimming off the interlocking tabs with a circular saw could not fix. However, you may want to avoid putting yourself through the trouble.

    The doors though I had a real problem with. I kept breaking the lintels (I7). After doing this a few times - I am a slow learner - I realised the problem was that the MDF the lintels were made from is thicker than the slot in the door frame (I6) that they are meant to fit in. Sanding-down the thickness of the lintels fixed the issue. Cad@4Ground has duplicated the issue and fixed the design - but if you have an issue with getting the lintels to fit it might be worth contacting 4Ground before spending an evening struggling with them. BTW I had excellent customer service on this from Cad - no complaints.

    When making the fighting platform walls (J-level), I found that the central strut (J4) did not fit. I don’t know what I did wrong - but I did it consistently wrong 24 times. I fixed the issue by removing about 1/2mm of the tab at the base of the piece (J4) so it could be inserted slightly deeper in the floor, so that the cut-out in J4 then aligned with the top rail (J2/J3).

    The K-level frame - which supports the roof - is a pyramidal section and not square. Not a problem in itself, but I found it very difficult to clamp properly while the glue dried. Clamps and rubber bands kept springing off; or the frame squished out of shape by being too tightly constrained. After the first one, I went for fast setting glue and just holding the pieces in place until the glue set. I nearly made a support jig. If anyone has a good tip for doing this, I’d love to know.

    My last comment on constructing this is around the roof. Though it does not really matter which way round the lower two sections of the roof go on (as long as you alternate the pieces), the top level is handed, and the right sides (L6 and L7) need to go against the right parts of the core (L2 and L3) of the ‘pyramid’. I got my first one wrong, and had to steam apart the pieces (I was using water-soluble PVA) and re-do them to get them to fit right. I did not make the same mistake with the other 5 roofs (or rooves in Medieval English). Normally, I cover the supplied roofs with cardboard tiles - I am not sure I will in this case: the roof texture looks good and the 3D-shape looks hard to cover.

    I hope you found this useful and you avoid my mistakes.
    Last edited by SableFox; 09-18-2017 at 11:35 PM.

  2. #2
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    I like reading about people making things, especially if it is useful as this certainly seems to be, so thank you. It is nice to let someone else make the mistakes before I can, though then I will make new mistakes.
    I don’t think I will get my hands on this kit for many months so I just hope I remember about your post.

  3. #3
    Kickstarter Backer While's Avatar
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    Super useful when I get mine! Thanks!

  4. #4
    Kickstarter Backer SableFox's Avatar
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    Thanks for the positive feedback. It is good to know these notes may be of use to others. Makes the effort worth while.

    Even if you don't get the fort - I know it is a big investment - some of the individual fort parts would be good. A single tower could be a Watchtower in the Wilderness for example. My notes may still help with these, though the part numbers will be different (edit: no they are not).
    Last edited by SableFox; 09-18-2017 at 11:59 PM.

  5. #5
    Kickstarter Backer SableFox's Avatar
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    I've now started making up the separate towers I brought (I wanted a 1 door and a couple of 3 door towers). I must say I found them a lot lot easier to make. Partially experience from the previous ones, and partially the fact it is easier to find the pieces. I'd recommend making one of these up before making up the fort.

    This is a great kit since it gives you everything needed to make 4 versions of the tower. You also get left over bits great for adding to the kit-bashing/scratch-building box. As a stand alone tower - without the fort - I can see lots of uses for it as a terrain piece in a variety of scenarios.

    Above I said I wasn't sure if the piece-numbers would be the same in the individual set instructions as they are in the fort: the answer appears to be they are :-)

    One thing it reminded me of is just how flimsy the H7/8/9 the pieces can be - or how clumsy I am. Due to the high relief on these pieces, at a couple of points they narrow down to only around 1mm width - easy to bend or snap. Take care ;-)

    The other 'experiment' I tried was using the 28S-MAO-109 Staircase add on with the tower. As expected it fits perfectly as a replacement for the supplied stairs (which are excellent), giving more variety. I definitely need several of these.

  6. #6
    Kickstarter Backer SableFox's Avatar
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    Well I've finally managed to break an L7 (upper roof section)- I knew I would; not by trying to get it out of the frame, but by trying to get it to fit on the roof. The four pieces that make up the upper roof are, in my opinion, one if the hardiest sections to make since the tight is so tight - I think this bit would be much easier if there was a half-mil or so if 'slop' in the slots on these pieces, so there was more room to manoeuvre, and less temptation to apply force.

    So since this is 'Hints and Tips' this is what I recommend:-
    1. Reduce the size of the sticking out lug on the internal pyramidal frame (just a small amount, no more than 1mm)
    2. Chamfere/bevel the inside bottom edge of L6/L7 to make them easier to slide in to place
    3. Place one if the L6 pieces last (I find them easier to fit); this is the opposite to what 4Ground suggest


    Whilst I am at it (talking about roofs), I would also suggest gluing along the inside joins of the lower sections of roof (once the roof joints are dry) - it will make them much stronger.

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