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Thread: Fyrburgh Fort - Hints and Tips.

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    Kickstarter Backer SableFox's Avatar
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    Jul 2017

    Fyrburgh Fort - Hints and Tips.

    Let me start by saying the I have built the Fyrburgh Fort set, really enjoying making-up the kit, and loving the end result. The fort is highly modular design, allowing you to use it in a number of different scenarios from small fortlet to a section of a city wall.

    I consider myself to be a moderately good builder/modeller with scratch-building experience. However, the Fyrburgh kit is large and moderately complex, and I discovered a few gotchas (which were my fault). I thought I would share some Hints and Tips in the hope they might help others. If you have built this set, or other Teuden Defence kits, then please add to this thread by sharing your experiences.

    My first comment is on the fact that the planks are cut all the way through the pieces. This leads to two potential complications: (a) some of the pieces are weaker than you might expect (so handle with care, especially when extracting them); and (b) there are little slivers of waste wood between the planks which you probably should really remove before glueing (I ended up tapping each piece, like a Napoleonic sailor removing weevils from ship’s biscuit).

    I found the following piece especially easy to break (so take care): D8, G4, H7/8/9, and K3/4. L6, with its big slot in a narrow plank, looked like it should break, but I didn’t actually have one break on me.

    The wall pieces are really easy to make up. My only caution is to be gentle when bending the inner wall (D8) in to place on the curved sections. Despite trying to be careful, I managed to bend two of them too far - they are easy to glue back together though.

    I brought a couple of extra straight pieces for conversion - one as a breached section (see separate thread { }) and to make some shorter wall sections. Don’t bother to do the latter since 4Ground will be releasing 3” and 1.5” lengths as add-ons anyway. It was fun making my own, but 4Ground’s will be easier.

    The staircases are very easy to make up. If you, like me, pop out all the risers (C5 - they are all on one sheet) to make up the stairs on page 1, remember to keep the excess since you need them for the stairs on pages 4 and 6 - loosing them - as I did - could be rather embarrassing or expensive.

    When making the doors, I found the bar brackets (E9) hard to position correctly, so I left the drawbar (F4) in place whilst the glue set to ensure it would fit later. Though it is an obvious thing, make sure you getting the locking tab (G3) on the right side with respect to the drawbar. The doors are meant to open outwards (makes them harder to break with a battering-ram).

    The towers are more complex than the walls. I found them somewhat more difficult that the average house; but still fairly straight forward. I thoroughly recommend doing a dry run of each stage.

    My main mistake was that despite knowing I was supposed to make four corner and two straight through towers, I managed to make up three of each. Not really a problem, but since the interior sections only fit together in specific orders, I did not have the right pieces for the third straight-through tower. Nothing that trimming off the interlocking tabs with a circular saw could not fix. However, you may want to avoid putting yourself through the trouble.

    The doors though I had a real problem with. I kept breaking the lintels (I7). After doing this a few times - I am a slow learner - I realised the problem was that the MDF the lintels were made from is thicker than the slot in the door frame (I6) that they are meant to fit in. Sanding-down the thickness of the lintels fixed the issue. Cad@4Ground has duplicated the issue and fixed the design - but if you have an issue with getting the lintels to fit it might be worth contacting 4Ground before spending an evening struggling with them. BTW I had excellent customer service on this from Cad - no complaints.

    When making the fighting platform walls (J-level), I found that the central strut (J4) did not fit. I don’t know what I did wrong - but I did it consistently wrong 24 times. I fixed the issue by removing about 1/2mm of the tab at the base of the piece (J4) so it could be inserted slightly deeper in the floor, so that the cut-out in J4 then aligned with the top rail (J2/J3).

    The K-level frame - which supports the roof - is a pyramidal section and not square. Not a problem in itself, but I found it very difficult to clamp properly while the glue dried. Clamps and rubber bands kept springing off; or the frame squished out of shape by being too tightly constrained. After the first one, I went for fast setting glue and just holding the pieces in place until the glue set. I nearly made a support jig. If anyone has a good tip for doing this, I’d love to know.

    My last comment on constructing this is around the roof. Though it does not really matter which way round the lower two sections of the roof go on (as long as you alternate the pieces), the top level is handed, and the right sides (L6 and L7) need to go against the right parts of the core (L2 and L3) of the ‘pyramid’. I got my first one wrong, and had to steam apart the pieces (I was using water-soluble PVA) and re-do them to get them to fit right. I did not make the same mistake with the other 5 roofs (or rooves in Medieval English). Normally, I cover the supplied roofs with cardboard tiles - I am not sure I will in this case: the roof texture looks good and the 3D-shape looks hard to cover.

    I hope you found this useful and you avoid my mistakes.
    Last edited by SableFox; 09-18-2017 at 11:35 PM.

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